Here's a brief look at the Sony DT 11-18mm F/4.5-5.6 zoom
lens. Scroll down for the review.
Lens
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SAL1118 Sony DT 11-18mm F/4.5-5.6 zoom lens
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Box contents
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Front and rear caps, hood and users manual.
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Cost
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Build quality
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Good
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Additional information
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Good lens, but check out the Sigma 10-20mm too.
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Specifications below
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Optical configuration
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15 elements in 12 groups
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Angle of view
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104°-76°
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Aperture
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7 blades, circular
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Full frame and APS-C
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APS-C only, 35mm equivalent, 16.5-27mm. Works on full frame, but vignettes massively from 11-14mm, APS-C size capt.
will take care of this.
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Depth of field and focus scales?
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Distance scale only
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Minimum focus, image plane to subject
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9.6" (244mm)
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Minimum focus, end of lens barrel to subject
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4.4" (112mm)
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Hard stop at infinity focus?
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No
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Length changes when focusing?
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No
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Focus ring turns in AF?
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Yes
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Filter size
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77mm
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Filter ring rotates?
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No
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Distance encoder?
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Yes
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Max magnification
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0.125x
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Min. F/stop
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F/22-29
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Sony teleconverter compatible?
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No
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Length changes when zooming?
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Yes
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Dimensions W x L (my measurements)
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3.27" x 3.2" 83mm x 81mm -width is the filter ring, barrel is 2.91" (74mm)
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Maximum extended length (my measurements)
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3.35" (85mm)
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Weight bare (my scale)
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12.6oz (359g) 13.9oz (393g) with caps
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Requisite product shots.

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Here's the box and contents |

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Front element very pretty |

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Rear shot |

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Side shot fully extended |

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Front view again |

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X-ray view, Sony screen grab. |

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Sony supplied MTF chart |
The Sony A700 was used for this review. For a better understanding of my review methods and terminology, go here. This lens is currently the only factory super-wide angle zoom available for your Sony APS-C sensor
camera, and isn't designed to be use on full frame/film cameras, but it will work using APS-C size capture on Sony full frame
cameras. The lens is standard Sony satin black, with rubber ribbed grip areas around the zoom and focus rings.
Quality seem good, with a nice fit and finish, and it's made in Japan. It has a metal mount. This model appears
to be the same as the Tamron model, and is also a rebadged Konica Minolta lens from 2005. Sony says they use three asperical
elements and one "ED" element in the construction of the lens, see last two product views above. Zoom
control is nice and smooth and the barrel extends out another 4mm at full extension. The focal length numbers come at;
11mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm and 18mm. Funny, but my lens won't register 14mm in the EXIF data, all other numbers show up,
even in-between lengths. There's a lot of room between each number, so you could shoot different scenes at the same
length as it appears in the data, but it may look substantially closer, or farther away, that's in the design, they don't
put enough internal length sensor contacts to mark every single change of rotation or movement. Other lenses are like
this too, it's not a defect, but maybe the missing 14mm is. I'll say it now and at the end of this
review; you're paying for the wide end of this zoom, 11-13mm, this is what you should be using, if you think that's a little
too wide, and you most likely will not need that much, buy the more useful Sony 16-105mm for less money, or the CZ 16-80mm for a little more money. Focusing will be a little noisy for those of you used
to the silent wave type motors, but it's accurate and fairly quick. Manually focusing is easy, as you have 1/4 turn
from close-in to infinity, which is plenty of rotation. It has the standard focus distance scale. The closest
focusing distance from lens barrel to subject is 4.4" or 112mm.
Aperture/focal length guide for the Sony 11-18mm F/4.5-5.6
This lens has one set of overlapping numbers, for instance; you can get F/4.5 or F/5 at 12mm, depending on tiny movements
of the zoom ring, this is quite common. Look below for guide. Also, this lens did not register 14mm in the EXIF
data.
Maximum aperture
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F/4.5
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F/5
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F/5.6
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Range
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11mm-12mm
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12mm - 15mm
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16mm - 18mm
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Flare and ghosting. This is an super-wide angle lens, and covers a lot of area. If
the sun is out, chances are you'll encounter problems . Flare and ghosting are a problem at all focal lengths when
the sun is off-center in the image. When the sun is centered in the image, no problems. Veiling glare is noticeable
when using the lens with the aperture wide open, at all focal lengths, but more noticeable towards 18mm. The lens comes
with a hood (replacement cost $29) but it really doesn't do much good. Hold your hand out to block stray light when
the sun is outside the image, especially at 11mm. This lens handles sun flare better than the Sigma 10-20mm, but has
trouble controlling ghosting. If you don't shoot images that include the sun, you don't have to worry about
this. The severity of flare and ghosting on your image depends on many factors, including exposure level, angle of sun,
aperture, focal length, and background content.
This lens is multi-coated and
has beautiful colors when photographed. Filter size.
77mm. Other Sony lenses using this size are: 70-200mm G, CZ 24-70mm, CZ 16-35mm, 70-400mm G, and CZ 135mm F/1.8 Filter use. There's no additional vignetting when using regular filters. Coma.
Good control, and nothing to worry about at any setting. See crops below. Color.
Looks the same as other Sony lenses. Lateral color fringing is about average
to slightly more than average on this lens, It shows up at all apertures and all focal lengths. Stopping down doesn't
help, you'll have to live with it or remove it with your imaging software. It's basically green and red along
the sides of the image. See photo near the bottom of the review.

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Moderate barrel distortion. 11mm |

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Very slight barrel distortion at 18mm. |
Barrel and pincushion distortion. The distortion at 11mm is a little odd. It bulges
in the center but flattens out at the ends, This kind of distortion is more difficult to correct in imaging software, though
it isn't bad by any stretch and probably wouldn't need correcting if you're using the lens for landscape scenes. It's
not like the moustache distortion of the Sigma 10-20mm lens. At 15mm it's flat, and 18mm has only a very slight bulging distortion.
Lens Bokeh. The Sony DT 11-18mm F/4.5-5.6 is a little harsh in this department. Everything
is in focus less than 15' (4.5m) and beyond, so background blur isn't something I'd worry about with this lens.
Check out the samples below.
light fall-off, directly below, looks mild at 11mm and F/4.5, stopping down doesn't do much,
but there isn't a problem. At the 18mm end there is some corner shading noticeable also, but it blends nicely towards
the center. You can't see this in real pictures. Very good control here for a super-wide lens, and much better
than the Sigma 10-20mm.
11mm @ F/4.5
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11mm @ F/8
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18mm @ F/5.6
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18mm @ F/8
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11mm @ F/4.5 Light fall-off
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11mm @ F/4.5 color blobs and arc
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11mm @ F/4.5 bokeh
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11mm @ F/5.6 bokeh
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18mm @ F/5.6 bokeh
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18mm @ F/8 bokeh
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11mm @ F/4.5 coma
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11mm @ F/5.6 coma
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The left shot above shows light fall-off at F/4.5, which really isn't noticeable. The right
shot is ghosting. I went out of my way to make a mess of this boring shot just to show you what may happen if you don't
pay attention in the viewfinder. A lot of things can happen when you wave a wide angle lens around in the sun.
This lens is about average overall for flare and ghosting control. Bokeh examples
in the middle. They look harsh, but getting any background blur is hard with a super-wide angle lens.
Don't worry about this. Coma. Bottom row. Super light wide open
at 11mm. No problems here. Corner softness. See cropped
images below.
11mm @ F/4.5
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11mm @ F/5.6
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11mm @ F/8
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11mm @ F/11
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18mm corners.
18mm @ F/5.6
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18mm @ F/8
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The 11mm corners are very soft, and stopping down to F/11 helps greatly. Up towards 18mm, the corners look
pretty good and stopping down isn't all that necessary. If you're taking pictures of your home or architectural type
shots, and you want everything super sharp, stop down to F/8 but not F/11 where softening of the image occurs due to diffraction,
see below. For indoors, use a tripod if you can't get the shutter speeds you require for hand-held use.
Center
samples next.
11mm @ F/4.5
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11mm @ F/5.6
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11mm @ F/8
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11mm @ F/11
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18mm @ F/5.6
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18mm @ F/8
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Look at the boring and almost fruitless shots above. This isn't the way to shoot this lens, but I had
to be able to get everything sharp in the image, thus, the shots above. The top 11mm crops show the sharpest centers
at F/4.5, and that's good, though F/5.6 looks good too. F/8 softens, and F/11 more so. At the bottom, we have the
18mm centers, and it's the same as above, wide open at F/5.6 is sharpest, then softening up slightly at F/8, and again,
more at F/11. To sum it up; the centers are very sharp wide open, and you'll have plenty of DOF, even at F/4.5.
Example of color fringing below.

Check out the color fringing along the sides. This sample is a crop (11mm, F/4.5) from the extreme
left side, the last 500 pixels. You can get rid of most, but not all color fringing with simple slider CA tools, such
as found in Adobe PS Lightroom software. This is lateral CA, and doesn't get better by stopping down the aperture.
Check out the close focus shot.
Below, check out the sample, a 100%
cropped portion of the full image. The sample shot was taken with the Sony A700 12.2MP camera. The subject is a standard US stamp, 1"x 3/4" or 25.4mm x 19mm. Also, note the macro
shot was taken as close to the subject as focusing allowed; In this case, 4.4" or 112mm, measured from the front of the
lens barrel to the subject. This lens has a small reproduction size at 0.125x. It isn't meant to be a
good close up lens, so don't use it for this.

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100% crop, actual size so no link to bigger picture. F/5.6 |
Conclusion.The Sony DT 11-18mm F/4.5-5.6 is currently the only factory super-wide angle zoom you can buy for your Sony APS-C sensor camera. The difference between
11mm and 18mm is pretty substantial, and offers a big leap in area covered over the standard 18mm starting range of most zooms.
The Sony DT 11-18mm lens has sub-par color fringing control, and the corners at the super
wide end are pretty soft unless stopped down hard. The centers are very sharp wide open, light fall-off is controlled
well, and the odd 11mm distortion is not noticeable in normal photos, and is nearly gone by 14-15mm. Ghosting is average,
but veiling glare control is above average. If you pay attention while looking through the viewfinder, you can mitigate
ghosts and flare on your image by careful framing and shielding of the front element, so I wouldn't worry about this. To
give you an idea about how much this lens will cover, at 11mm or 16.5mm (35mm equivalent), you can get an entire normal-sized
bedroom in the frame, from wall to wall, standing at the door. The lens at 11mm covers a lot of real estate. Unless
used correctly, most people will not enjoy the results with this lens. problematic areas include, getting your shoes
in the shot, or way too much ground or sky, and tiny unrecognizable objects in the middle of the frame because you were too
far away and tried to include everything etc. I've done all those things. Try some forced perspective type shots,
like getting the camera square in the middle of the action or object of interest. Don't be afraid of distorting the
crap out of things, that makes the shot that much more interesting. It's also good for taking pictures of rooms or areas
where you can't back off enough with a normal lens. This is also called "getting it all in" and sometimes
you just feel the need to do it, but is shunned by many photographers. Used in this way walls tend to want to tilt hard
over (keystone), and things near the periphery are elongated, but some of that can be corrected in imaging software.
If you don't really want to spend big money, you can go for an after-market lens, like the Sigma 10-20mm ultra-wide angle, which I've also reviewed, for far less. This lens performs very well, and it's a little wider at 10mm vs the Sony
11mm. The bottom line is; the Sony 11-18mm is a decent lens, but almost too expensive now at $800,
I'd look elsewhere unless you can get a cheap used copy.
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